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Books that get to the heart of a favourite global pastime.

More than 80% of the Australian population lives within 50km of a beach. And from about halfway down the east coast, around the bottom and to halfway up the west, geography and physics combine to offer world-class waves. It’s no surprise, then, that millions of Australians surf. And even less of a surprise that some who do so have written about their experiences. Legends, trailblazers, champions and kooks – here are some stories of Australian surfing lives.

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