More than 80% of the Australian population lives within 50km of a beach. And from about halfway down the east coast, around the bottom and halfway up the west, geography and physics combine to offer world-class waves. It’s no surprise, then, that millions of Australians surf. And even less of a surprise that some who do so have written about their experiences. Legends, trailblazers, champions and kooks – here are some stories of Australian surfing lives.
Two surfing legends in one book!
The story of Australian surfer Darren Longbottom's epic rescue from a remote surf break in Indonesia
An inspirational tale of overcoming the odds to become world champ
Updated version of the bestselling autobiography
How a big island at the bottom of the world became the greatest surfing nation on earth.