Shaking Salmon (Cá Hồi Lúc Lắc)

I removed the skin so that the salmon cubes would cook up better. I didn’t want to waste the skin—a tasty (and pricey) part of the fish – so I baked it into crisp chips to serve with the dish. (If the skin’s fishiness isn’t for you, discard the skin and skip the prep step.) Coating the salmon cubes in rice flour enables easy searing. Ginger adds a spritely bite to the garlicky, peppery sauce.

In Vietnamese, this warm-cool salad is quirkily named for how the featured protein is cut as large cubes that resemble hột lúc lắc (playing dice). Because lúc lắc means 'to shake' and that action is involved in cooking the dish, 'shaking' became part of the charming English-language translation. No matter what it’s called, this salad-y main is great on its own or with a side of rice.

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

• 1 1⁄3-lb center-cut salmon fillet, skin removed and reserved (see Note)
• Fine sea salt
• Recently ground black pepper
• 2 1⁄2 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 2 tsp minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• 1 Tbsp granulated sugar, agave syrup, or mild honey, plus 2 tsp
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 1 1⁄2 Tbsp soy sauce
• 1 1⁄2 tsp fish sauce (store- bought or vegan version, page 29)
• 1⁄4 cup thinly sliced red onion or shallot
• 1 1⁄2 Tbsp unseasoned rice vinegar
• 2 Tbsp water or neutral oil (such as canola or peanut; choose water for a brighter salad flavor, oil for a richer outcome)
• 5 to 6 cups lightly packed spring baby lettuce mix or watercress
• 1⁄3 cup hand-torn dill, mint, basil, shiso, or a combination
• 6 to 8 cherry tomatoes or small red radishes, halved
• 1 1⁄2 Tbsp white or brown rice flour
• 1 1⁄2 Tbsp neutral oil (such as canola or peanut)

Method

Cut the salmon and make the chips

Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil.

Cut the salmon flesh into 3⁄4- to 1-inch cubes and set on a plate. Cut the reserved salmon skin into 3⁄4-inch-wide strips about 3 inches long. Season with a few pinches of salt and pepper and then coat with 1 tsp of the sesame oil. Arrange the skin strips, shinier scale-side up, on the foil.

Bake the salmon skin for 12 to 18 minutes, or until sizzling and crisp (expect oil to pool in the pan). The cooking time depends on the strips’ thickness; monitor and remove them as they’re done to avoid burning. Transfer to a plate, leaving the oil behind, and let cool completely.

Mix the seasoning sauce and ready the salad

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the ginger, garlic, 1 Tbsp sugar, corn- starch, 1⁄2 tsp pepper, soy sauce, fish sauce, and remaining 11⁄2 tsp sesame oil.

Rinse the onion in a strainer under cold running water for about 10 seconds, then set aside. In a large bowl (suitable for tossing the salad), whisk together the remaining 2 tsp sugar, 1⁄8 tsp salt, 1⁄8 tsp pepper, vinegar, and water. Add the onion and top with the lettuce, herbs, and tomatoes. Don’t toss yet.

Cook the salmon, toss the salad, and serve

Lightly coat the cubed salmon with the rice flour. Set by the stove with the ginger-garlic seasoning sauce.

Set a 12-inch skillet (I favor carbon steel for its heat conduction) over high heat and add the neutral oil. When the oil ripples, add the salmon and cook, gently turning and tossing it, for about 3 minutes, until the fish is nearly cooked through. To test for doneness, poke the flesh; it should give a bit and the interior should look opaque.

Lower the heat slightly, pour in the seasoning sauce, and cook briefly, tossing and gently stirring, for about 30 seconds to cloak the salmon in the sauce. Remove the pan from the heat and let rest and cool for a few minutes.

Meanwhile, toss the salad, transfer everything (including the dressing lingering at the bottom of the bowl) to a platter or shallow serving bowl, and then top with the cooked salmon and skin chips. Serve immediately, inviting diners to combine the salmon with the salad for a cool-warm finish. Or, ceremoniously combine the ingredients at the table and let diners dive in.

Notes

Ingredients

If you skip the salmon skin, substitute crumbled sesame sticks for a rich crunch, if desired.

Technique

To remove the skin from the salmon fillet, cut the fillet crosswise into approximately 3-inch-wide sections. Set the fillet skin-side down on the cutting board. Run your finger along the fillet’s thicker edge to open a gap between the flesh and skin. Slide a knife (boning, fillet, or chef’s) into the gap. Working with the knife nearly parallel to the cutting board, angle the blade downward to cut the skin away from the flesh. When there’s enough detached skin, hold on to it to keep the fillet in place and provide slight tension to guide the blade as you saw the knife all the way through to the other edge. When you’re done, if you like, flip the skin over and scrape any loose scales off from the shiny side.

Tip: Select a salmon fillet that’s about 1 inch thick in the middle; ask the fishmonger to remove the skin if you don’t want to do it yourself.