Drunken noodles (with any meat)

In other words, pad kee mao is good times food! Extra-large rice noodles are my first choice (noodle buying tips are on page 000) though I've also made this recipe with pastas like spaghetti and linguine. Notes include tips for a tofu rendition.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• Seasoning sauce made by mixing: 3 Tbsp fish sauce, 11/2 Tbsp Thai oyster sauce, 2 tsp Thai black soy sauce, and 11/2 Tbsp water
• 225g | 8 oz ground meat (any kind)
• 1/8 tsp baking soda
• 1 pinch of granulated sugar (optional)
• 20g | 3 Tbsp thinly sliced shallots
• 10 to 15g | 6 to 8 fresh Thai chillies, to taste
• 2g | 2 tsp coarsely chopped cilantro root (optional; see notes)
• 40g | 1/4 cup garlic cloves
• 450g | 1 lb fresh chow fun rice noodles (see Note)
• 3 Tbsp neutral oil, such as rice bran
• 45g | 1/2 small yellow or red onion, cut into wedges 1/2 inch (1.25cm) thick
• 75g | 1 cup thickly sliced mini sweet peppers or other mild chilies
• 45g | 2 cups fresh holy or Thai basil leaves, plus tender tips for garnish
• Lime wedges, for serving (optional)

Method:

Prep the meat: Mix the seasoning sauce in a small measuring cup, then spoon 11/2 tsp of it into a medium bowl. Add the ground meat, baking soda, and sugar (if you want a touch of sweetness) to the bowl, then mix and massage the seasonings evenly into the meat.

Ready the remaining ingredients: Using a mortar and pestle, pound together the shallot, Thai chilies, and cilantro root to a coarse, rough texture. Add the garlic and pound to flatten, then scrape into a small bowl. Separate and fluff the noodles, dropping them into a medium bowl. Set the noodles by the stovetop along with the pounded garlic mixture, oil, seasoned meat, reserved seasoning sauce, onion, sweet peppers, and basil.

Stir-fry and serve: Set a large wok or skillet over medium-low heat on the biggest burner. When the pan is hot (to test, flick in a couple of drops of water; they should sizzle and evaporate within seconds), add 1 Tbsp of the oil, swirl the pan to coat with the oil, and add the pounded garlic mixture. Let it gently sizzle, stirring constantly, to tease the garlic and mellow its harsh raw edge, 30 to 60 seconds. Take care to avoid burning. Return the garlic mixture to its bowl. Rinse and dry the wok.

Return the wok to high heat. When the pan is hot, add the remaining 2 Tbsp oil and swirl the pan to coat with the oil. Add the ground meat, spreading it out into a layer, and cook until browned, 30 to 45 seconds, then break up the meat into small pieces.

Add the onion and stir for about 15 seconds to mix well. Dump in the noodles and garlic mixture, drizzle half of the remaining seasoning sauce around the perimeter of the pan, and then stir-fry to combine, 30 to 45 seconds.

Add the sweet peppers, pour in the remaining seasoning sauce, and stir and fold for 45 seconds just to soften the peppers. Add the basil and incorporate quickly to wilt, about 20 seconds.

Turn off the heat, transfer to a platter, garnish with the basil tips, and enjoy with squeezes of lime for bright tang, if desired.

Notes

If you don't have cilantro root, just skip it; no need to bother with subbing cilantro stems.

Instead of fresh rice noodles, boil 7 oz (200g) wide dried flat rice sticks (see Rice Noodles 101 on page 000 for sourcing tips). Rinse and drain well, then transfer to a sheet pan or plate, and season with 1/4 tsp fine sea salt and 2 tsp neutral oil, such as rice bran. Use right away or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 days, then return to room temperature before stir-frying.

To make Dunken Noodles with Tofu (Pad Kee Mao Jae, ผัดขีเมาเจ), crumble super-firm tofu into pieces no bigger than 1/2 inch (1.25cm); when seasoning the tofu, omit the baking soda but to boost umami, add 1 tsp Saam Kleur (Three Buddies Paste, page 000). Employ vegetarian oyster sauce and Fast Fake Fish Sauce (page 000) instead of standard oyster and fish sauces. Use 3 Tbsp of oil to sear and brown the tofu, 1 to 2 minutes total. The rest remains the same.