Penguin Books Australia

Introduction

Growing up in a Greek household, first on a small Greek island and then in Australia, meant that I was constantly surrounded by family, friends and food. There was always some cultural or religious occasion, such as a wedding, christening or name day, to celebrate. Each invited guest would bring a dish, either sweet or savoury. At these festivities I would spend most of my time near the kitchen so that I could see each special dish being unveiled. I was always amazed by the care each guest had taken to present the food in a visually spectacular way.

The women would gather in one room and converse on many subjects, but food was always top of the agenda. They would reminisce about Greece and exchange memories, both happy and sad. When food was discussed each dish would have a story attached to it. It was during these gatherings that I began to develop a deeper understanding and appreciation for these women and for Greek cuisine. I have included some of their stories in this book, as many of them are so intricately associated with dishes I grew up eating and still cook today.

Because eating at a Greek table is as much about ritual as it is about sustenance, before the meal there is always a blessing of the food, followed by the words Kalli orexi and Stin igia sas ('Good appetite' and 'To your health'). And it wouldn't be a Greek meal without a toast with wine or ouzo.

In Greek cooking today, the influence of the ancients is still evident. Many of the same ingredients that the ancient Greeks prized are central to modern Greek cooking. Ingredients are handled with respect and presented with care, just as they were all those millennia ago. Perhaps the reason Greeks today treat the act of sharing food with often religious and philosophical significance comes from their roots. In ancient times Greeks never ate meat unless it had been sacrificed to a god, and certain vegetables were considered 'cleaner' than others.

Much of the food prepared on the mainland by the ancient Greeks was relatively simple and minimally spiced. The concept of sweet and sour - such as vinegar or garos (fish sauce) combined with honey - was of great importance. Archestratus, renowned as the father of gastronomy and the writer of the first cookbook, took great care to follow this philosophy so as best to enhance the overall harmony of tastes and aromas.

The resulting Greek cuisine has been influencing the culinary traditions of other cultures for thousands of years. Many recipes with Turkish names have their origins in Greek cooking. The Romans also adopted and imitated Greek dishes, ingredients and cooking styles after employing Athenian cooks and later procuring the services of Greek tutors for the education of their children. This ultimately resulted in Greek cuisine influencing some of the Italian and French culinary traditions.

Greece's more modern history has also made a deep impression on the way that Greek people eat. The Second World War was a time of great deprivation and many people had to be inventive with the dishes they cooked, simply in order to survive. In the years that followed, many - my family included ­left their homeland to begin new lives in Australia. As well as suitcases filled with their beloved ingredients, they brought with them a notion central to Greek cuisine: kerasma, the sharing and offering of food to loved ones.

This book is as much about the importance of the family and friends who share our table as it is about food. I include here stories from my own family - about what it is that makes them so uniquely Greek and how I have come to honour my Greek heritage. My mother's side of the family has had the strongest influence on me when it comes to food. When I cook I sense their spirit and energy guiding me to produce dishes that capture cultural traditions and family secrets.

Greek people are passionate about their food; they blossom like flowers when they are around it. They are so proud of their cuisine that the Greek postal office often releases postage stamps to showcase dishes and to share recipes with the rest of the world. And I am no exception!

When you try these recipes, I hope you'll feel the same connection with Greece that I do.